Ask anyone to describe a Dutch city and you will hear about gabled houses, canals and histories that go back deep into the Middle Ages or even before. This is mostly correct, with two notable exceptions. Rotterdam, though old, is now a modern vibrant harbortown unlike any other Dutch city. The other exception is the southern city of Eindhoven. Around the year 1900 it was a tiny town of barely 5000 people, now it is the fifth city in the country.
Historians like to look for all kinds of factors that make a city grow, but in Eindhoven’s case it is a simple one. It was here that the brothers Philips started a small factory to produce light bulbs. Their bulbs were world class and people came from all over the country to work for them. The company grew rapidly and with it so did the city. Philips went from bulbs to transistor radios, televisions and household appliances and ventured further into all kinds of electronics. It made Philips a multinational company and Eindhoven a city.
Philips attracted companies that were related to their businesses and today it is a high tech town with its own Technical University and companies like microchip maker ASML. Philips moved its headquarters to Amsterdam about 20 years ago and nothing is manufactured in Eindhoven anymore. Only the Research and Development people stayed. The holes that Philips left are now filled up and Eindhoven is going through a double renaissance. First as a city, second as a brewing town.
Eindhoven and beer
Eindhoven was late on the craft beer scene compared to the center of Dutch brewing, an area roughly between Haarlem – Amsterdam – Utrecht and Bodegraven. The first time I noticed Eindhoven as a spot for good beer was when Van Moll opened its doors three years ago. It was mentions on social media and associations with other breweries that gave it fame before most of us had even had a taste. Van Moll has placed itself among the Major League brewers of the country and will be discussed in part three of this Eindhoven series.
Another brewery started last year and calls itself the City Brewery or Stadsbrouwerij. They have a different setup, different ideas but the same passion for craft beer and they will also be dealt with in a separate post.
So is there anything else worth visiting? Apart from these two breweries there certainly is. A number of excellent shops and bars to be precise. Let’s have a look.
Bottle Shop Eindhoven
Close to the Stadsbrouwerij a new store opened up called the Bottle Shop. The guys running it had an online shop for a while but now opened a physical shop in a street that seems to be changing from chain stores to smaller, one-of-a-kind niche stores. The selection is great with some good Dutch, English and America beers and even Icelandic bottles of goodness. They have opted for the seemingly old-fashioned ‘sort-by-style’ shelving, but they added a twist. Sure, they go from light and low to dark and heavy but they have chosen to do so not only with the beer bottles but also the wine bottles. The sparkling white wines will be next to lighter weizens while darker red wines stand next to the Russian Stouts. Definitely worth a visit for this novel concept alone.
De Bier Brigadier
This shop is also conveniently located close to a brewery. Van Moll is around the corner. If you are looking for a local beer this is the place for you. Almost all Eindhoven and surrounding cities are represented. But there is a lot more than just this with shelves of national and international beer. They also sell starter kits for homebrewers and some merchandise. It is very different from The Bottle Shop. It is a dark place, although that could be because we were there at 4pm, but one that feels like the old record stores of days gone by, a place with warmth and people who know everything you want to know.
Mitra van Bergen
Mitra is a chain store that does a lot of good for the Dutch craft beer scene. All shops will have a good selection nonetheless but in some cases the owners can basically decides on their own what they want to sell. This Mitra is one of the best I have been to so far, the other one being the Mitra on the Vismarkt in Groningen.
Though Mitra is a liquor store and not a beer store, beer takes center stage in this shop. The selection is as good as you might expect with again a great selection of local, Dutch and international beers.
The location is one you have to take a detour for because it is in an area with other shops, but outside of the city center.
Veem and the Strijp
When most of Phillips turned their backs on Eindhoven they left behind a huge area the city called the Strijp. For years this was a bad part of town around empty office and factory buildings. A holding company bought the buildings in 2004 and started work on a new boost to the city, including holding the Dutch Design Week. A visit now will see you enter a hall with small shops but no walls, but the most interesting for our sake is a building that is being turned into a big food hall, not unlike the Markthal in Rotterdam or better yet the Phoenix Food Factory where the Kaapse Brouwers are located. Chocolate, Italian, Local deli meats, bread, burgers and also a beer pub and shop. Very soon a small brewing installation will be put up here to brew for Brouwerij Veem. 24 taps with maybe not the most exciting beers but good enough to merit a visit, especially for the entire food hall.
After our visit to Van Moll we planned on visiting this place. Mostly because every single person we talked to named this first. Unfortunately it was late in the evening and the place was packed with no room to sit. But I believe everyone who told us this is the place to go, so I will make sure that when we visit Eindhoven again this will be the first stop on the tour.
I was one of those people who didn’t have a good idea about Eindhoven. But for beer enthousiasts Eindhoven is definitely a good place to go to and as in the list of biggest cities Eindhoven now also is a prime destination for beer with the breweries, shops and bars. The number of breweries and brewers is growing too. And they are anything but bad. If you come across Oldskool, Loc, Lux, Papa Brews are the paperwrapped bottles of De Mouterij grab hold of one.